Restoring your skin barrier after summer: what does science say?

Dermatologists see it every year: after summer, many people have dull, sensitive, or irritated skin. The cause? Months of sun, salt, and air conditioning can weaken the skin barrier. Fortunately, your skin is a resilient organ that can repair itself if you give it the right support. Here's what science tells us.

Back to basics: the skin barrier

The skin barrier – the stratum corneum – forms the outermost layer of the epidermis. This protective layer of cells and lipids retains moisture and wards off harmful external influences, such as UV radiation and pollution.

Research shows that a well-functioning barrier is crucial for virtually all important skin processes: from moisture regulation to maintaining a healthy microbiome. But during the summer months, the skin barrier can come under pressure. UV radiation breaks down lipids and proteins, while saltwater, chlorine, and air conditioning strip moisture. The result: a barrier that hydrates less effectively, is more prone to irritation, and recovers more slowly. By providing your skin with targeted support in late summer, the stratum corneum remains resilient and can optimally perform its essential protective and hydrating functions.

Why Summer is Taxing

Summer feels like relaxation for us, but for our skin, it's a competitive sport. Sun exposure damages lipids and collagen, seawater and swimming pools disrupt the lipid layer, and air conditioning lowers the humidity, causing more water to evaporate from the skin (transepidermal water loss). The skin barrier is resilient and can withstand a lot, but after a summer full of challenges, it deserves extra attention to maintain its strength.

Recognize the signals

After summer, look out for these signs of a weakened skin barrier:

• Redness and flakes
• A tight, pulling or itchy feeling
• Fine lines that are more visible
• A dull, gray skin

Dermatological research confirms that these are all indicators that the skin barrier needs extra support.

Your skin's self-healing capacity

The skin is a remarkable organ with impressive self-healing abilities. It can replenish lipids and rebalance the microbiome—the protective layer of beneficial bacteria. According to dermatologists, you can enhance this process by protecting the barrier and providing targeted moisture and lipids. Especially after summer, this helps your skin do what it's naturally good at: hydrating, protecting, and repairing.

Biomimetic ingredients

A growing body of research demonstrates the effectiveness of biomimetic skincare: skincare that mimics and supports the skin's own natural processes. Natural ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ectoine work together to strengthen your skin barrier. Just as the different layers of your skin work together, biomimetic ingredients also enhance each other's effectiveness.

• Ectoine binds water and reduces cell stress, with a clinically proven calming effect.
• Short-chain hyaluronic acid penetrates deep into the skin layers for long-lasting hydration.
• Skin Lipid Matrix mimics the lipid structure of the stratum corneum, thus strengthening the barrier.
• Glycoine provides cells with energy and supports natural renewal.

Skiniminalism really works

When your skin feels unsettled, it's tempting to use ever more products and complicated routines. But research shows that skinimalism —a minimalist approach to skincare—actually gives your skin the most time to heal itself. Therefore, choose gentle, pure formulas with only the essential ingredients and avoid unnecessary additives or harsh exfoliants. This gives the skin barrier the opportunity to maintain its natural strength and balance.

Your late summer routine in 4 steps

Help your skin recover from summer and get it winter-ready with a simple, science-backed routine:

1. Gentle cleaning
   Use a pH-neutral, gentle cleanser to remove SPF and dirt without disrupting your skin's natural lipid barrier. After cleansing, your skin should feel comfortable and supple, not tight or tight.
2. Deeply hydrate
   Apply a serum or cream with intensively hydrating and barrier-strengthening ingredients. Research shows that short-chain hyaluronic acid can penetrate deeper into the skin's layers and retain moisture there for a long time, optimally hydrating the skin from within.
3. Nourish and strengthen
   In the evening, choose a cream or balm with skin-identical lipids and antioxidants. This supports the microbiome and nighttime repair processes.
4. Daily protection
   Finish your morning routine with a broad-spectrum SPF. Even in fall and winter, UV radiation remains one of the biggest stressors for the stratum corneum.

Sources & further reading

• Elias, P. M. (2012). Stratum corneum defensive functions: an integrated view. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 132(3 Pt 1), 511–512.
• Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 43–48.
• Rittié, L., & Fisher, G. J. (2015). UV light-induced signal cascades and skin aging. Aging Research Reviews, 21, 1–17.
• Graf, R., et al. (2018). Ectoine protects against UVA-induced oxidative damage and inflammation. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology, 178, 301–308.
• Papakonstantinou, E., Roth, M., & Karakiulakis, G. (2012). Hyaluronic acid: a key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-Endocrinology, 4(3), 253–258.
• Voegeli, R. (2017). Transepidermal water loss: gold standard for skin barrier assessment? Cosmetics, 4(2), 19.